Here, in a sizeable strip of waterfront overlooking the hippie enclave of Christiania, is a new home for Noma, a place for Redzepi to press reset, and then dream bigger than ever before. More importantly, there’s been bricklaying in the literal sense, about a kilometre north-east of the restaurant’s original address. The road is not paved in front of us, for we want to be the ones laying the bricks.’Īs it turned out, the next moves included pop-ups in Tokyo, Sydney and Tulum, each more wildly popular than the last, as well as two sibling restaurants, 108 and Barr (W*220). Turning to his team, he continued: ‘We have to stay there on the edge, looking for our next move. But in Redzepi’s view, they were nowhere near the finish line. Wood sorrel conquered caviar!’ Having made New Nordic into the culinary movement of the decade and turned the Danish capital into a gastronomic mecca, Noma was assuredly the most influential force in food since El Bulli. ‘And look at where we are now, celebrated for all the experiments. ‘We were the geeks in the class of fine linens and expensive wines,’ mused the head chef and co-founder.
Its menu of local, often foraged produce, served up on artisanal dishware in a pared-back space, upended popular expectations of what fine dining should be. Ascending the stage at London’s Guildhall, an exuberant René Redzepi looked back on the remarkable journey his Copenhagen dining room had taken since it opened in a then-derelict area of Christianshavn in 2003. Four years ago, Noma clinched the top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list – the fourth time in half a decade it had landed this honour.
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